Maiwa
**Sample** - Silk/Wool Blend Twill
$9.99
Maiwa
**Sample** - Silk/Wool Blend Twill
$9.99
Sample Only 25cm (1/4m) sample size
Fiber: 63% Silk & 37% Wool blend Twill Weave 12.5mm
Price point per metre 100cm (39")
This beautiful blend is lightweight and semi-sheer, softer than wool, but warmer than silk.
Width: Width approx. 55"/140cm.
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Maiwa
Cochineal 30g (1.1 oz.)
$12.95
Visit product page →Cochineal – is the most important of the insect dyes. The females of Dactylopius coccus colonize the prickly pear (nopal) cactus native to Mexico, Central and South America and the Canary Islands. Peru is currently the primary export country, shipping out over 4000 metric tons annually. This dye is found mostly in food, drugs and cosmetics. Cochineal has excellent light and washfastness and produces a powerful range of fuchsias, reds and purples. The colour changes with the mordants used and pH of the dyebath.
Although expensive, it is very concentrated. The bugs have a high dye content (carminic acid) and go a long way. You will need only 3-8% WOF for a medium depth of shade.
Mordanting: use alum mordant at 15% WOF for protein fibres. For cellulose mordant with tannin at 8% WOF and then alum at 15%, or alum acetate at 8%. If cream of tartar at 6% WOF is added to the alum mordanting bath or the dyebath, the colour achieved will be more towards Christmas red. With the addition of iron at 2-4% WOF to either the mordanting bath or the dye bath the colour will shift towards purple.
Dyeing: The colourant is first extracted from the dried insects. Gently grind the insects in a blender or use a mortar and pestle to crush them to a fine powder. Put this powder into a saucepan and cover with three inches of water. Boil for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid and set aside. Place the cochineal pulp back in the saucepan and again cover with water and boil for 30 minutes. Add this decanting to the first decanting. Repeat 2 more times. Some dyers will then keep the remaining pulp in a jar of water for several weeks and use in subsequent dyebaths.
The combined decantings are used to make a dyebath.
Cochineal is sensitive to acids and bases. The cochineal rich red can be shifted to orange with the addition of an acid (vinegar) and to a deep fuschia with the addition of an alkaline (soda ash). This sensitivity means the soaps used to pre or post wash your fibres must have a neutral pH.
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Maiwa
Cutch Extract 225g (8 oz.)
$12.95
Visit product page →Cutch Extract – This powder is an extract prepared from steeping the wood of the Acacia catechu tree in hot water until a syrupy liquid immerges. This is dried and then ground into powder. It is common to most parts of India, Burma, Indonesia and Peru. Indian cutch is by far the most beautiful. It is a good source of colourfast shades of brown - cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove. Cutch extract contains tannin as well as the dye compound catechu. It is easily soluble in water. Cutch has excellent light and washfast properties. It requires 20-50% WOF to dye a medium depth of shade.
Mordanting: use alum mordant at 15% WOF for both protein and cellulose fibres (there is enough tannin in cutch so mordanting with tannin is not required).
Dyeing: completely dissolve the powdered cutch (sometimes cutch will come a little chunky) in boiling water and add it to dyebath.
Deeper colours can be achieved by first soaking the cutch extract in a weak mixture of caustic soda. Add 1 tsp lye or sodium hydroxide to 4 litres (1 gallon) of water. Soak for 1 hour. Then add more water and neutralize with acetic acid or vinegar to pH7. Add this neutral solution to the dyebath.
Fibres are then added and the dyebath is kept at a low simmer for at least two hours. Cutch does not easily exhaust and dyebaths can be used multiple times for lighter shades.
The alum mordant yields toffee browns. The addition of iron at 2-4% WOF yields chocolate browns, while a soda ash rinse will redden the cutch colour. The addition of 2% WOF hydrogen peroxide during the final 15 minutes of dyeing will darken cutch considerably. Allowing the fibre to cool down and sit in the dyebath overnight will give the darkest shades.
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Maiwa
Ferrous Sulfate 500g (1.1 lb.)
$21.95
Visit product page →Ferrous sulfate or iron is an optional mordant and is used as a colour changer. It has the added benefit of making naturally dyed colours more light and washfast. It is more often used with cellulose fibers like cotton, linen, rayon and hemp and should be used with care on protein fibers as it can make them slightly hard or brittle. Iron shifts a colour to a deeper, darker shade. If used in the mordant process that shift is more distinct than when used directly in the dyebath.
Iron should be used at 2-4% wof. More than that could damage the fiber. -
Maiwa
Katazome Manual
$6.95
Visit product page →In depth instructions on how to make Norizome resist paste, using the Tsutsu mulberry cones and cutting of the Katagami mulberry paper stencils.
